Waterproof Care | How To Look After Waterproof Jackets And Shorts

– Riding mountain bikes in
wet weather is amazing fun, but of course you need some decent waterproof clothing in order to do that. And like any technical mountain-bike gear you need to maintain this stuff to make sure it consistently works and stays working. We’ve hooked up with Gore in order to give you all that information you need in maintaining and looking after your waterproof clothing. There are a lot of waterproof
and breathable garments available for mountain bikers to use. Some are more breathable then others, some are more waterproof then others. Now usually is we have to sacrifice trying to work out which one’s best, but when you say waterproof
and breathable to me the name that instantly springs to mind is Gore-Tex which of course is so well-known for the fact it’s completely waterproof and highly, highly breathable. But what is it that actually makes this technology work? Gore jackets and other garments are made up from multi layers of fabric and they all revolve around the all essential Gore-Tex membrane. Now the Gore-Tex membrane
is the key to the system. Now this stuff is covered in pores, in fact, there’s nine
million pores per square inch and each of those nine million pores is 20,000 times smaller
than a droplet of water. So because of this construction of course water and wind cannot pass through but actual sweating, that heat vapor can be released from the jacket so you’re not gonna be
clammy on the inside the breathability is like nothing else. The real key thing to the Gortex membrane above many other fabrics
available on the market is it’s not affected
by oils from your skin, it’s not affected by stuff like insect repellent which
can be highly damaging to other fabrics out there. Now although the membrane layer itself, of Gore-Tex fabric, doesn’t actually need anything to keep it
waterproof and breathable. The outer shell layer has in common with a lot of brands and
that’s this sort of stuff that has a DWR coating on it. So it’s that DWR coating,
durable water repellency that effectively keeps the
water beading off of you when you’re riding or
when you’re just outside in the wind and rain. Of course this is what we really associate with a waterproof jacket. Now again, the membrane will stop that water coming through, but when the DWR coating wears off the fabric of the outer shell of a jacket, and this applies to
all waterproof jackets, becomes saturated, it starts going dark in color and becomes very heavy and sits close to your skin. Now it might feel that your jackets are actually leaking at
this time, they’re not, it’s just the saturation
of the wet (mumbles) makes it feel clammy
and cold on the inside and that’s really uncomfortable. And when you’re cold
in the middle of winter it’s quite horrible. So looking after your jacket can restore that DWR coating and that water repellency
that you really need to stay warm and dry in winter. Now just like that DWR coating is essential to look after
on the outside of jackets there’s also a few things on the inside that you need to pay attention to. Now most waterproof jackets will have some kind of
seam sealing on them and of course the fabrics used are completely waterproof, but when it sticks together
there’s tiny stitch holes so the seam sealing basically seals up all of those stitch holes so
water cannot pass through. Now in time that stuff can deteriorate with your sweat and just constant use, crumpling up and stuffing
it in your riding bags, all that sort of stuff. So you need to basically
maintain your jacket just like you would any
other piece of tech kit. Other jackets, like Paclite materials, or other more modern
materials, quite often are welded together and might not have seam sealants as it’s not needed. This particular jacket is Paclite one and it does have some seam sealing but is very different looking. It’s a bit more traditional style which you can actually
fix yourself at home. The essential key to looking after your waterproof jacket
is to keep ’em clean. It’s really the simplest thing you can do. When you come in from riding make sure they’re nice
and clean a good idea. Perhaps if you’re just wet is to hang your jacket
up and let it drip dry. It’s the best way to make sure that all that stuff comes off the jacket and it’s gonna have the best chance of doing its job again afterwards. If you come in and you’re completely muddy you’ve got a couple of
options available to you. One that I quite often choose to do is whilst I’m washing my bike I’ll hose the jacket down at the same time just to get the worst of it off. In fact, you can see this
jacket here just by my side I’ve hosed off the worst of it. It has got some mud on
it, but it’s not too bad. It does mean after a few more rides then I’m gonna give this
proper treatment again. You have to decide what works best for you with your particular jacket. Now this is absolutely key, you need to what your fabric is, you need to know what
the traits of the fabric of your jacket is and how
you treat it accordingly. And when it comes to
washing Gore-Tex fabrics you’ll be quite pleased
with your investment because there’s really nothing that special you have to do. And I actually encourage you
to wash Gore-Tex fabrics, and Gore jackets on a regular basis. What you need to do is wash using your normal household
washing powder at 40 degrees. Now you have to make sure at all costs you do not use a fabric softener. Now this goes with all
technical waterproof jackets. This stuff wreaks havoc with the breathability of jackets and to a degree the
waterproofness as well. Now whilst Gore jackets don’t need to be tumbled dry to reactivate anything drying a jacket is always good it does help with that DWR coating and many other jacket manufacturers recommend warm tumble dry to reactivate the DWR coating. Now some particular waterproof jackets you’re definitely gonna need to use dedicated proofers and re-treaters to reactivate everything. Now you don’t need to do this with Gore. Again, you don’t need a tech wash, just your regular household
washing powder will be fun whereas other jackets that recommend you to not use household products. So again, that’s fine with Gore, but not with all brands. Now Gore will tell you to not use a wash-in reproofer
because this can actually create havoc with those
nine million pores. So that’s a bit of an issue with Gore so don’t do washing-reproofing treatment. Now this particular spray is by Nikwax and this is recommended
for use on Gore fabrics so you know it’s safe to use on your Gore-Tex jackets, but also on eVent and Simtex fabrics. Now something often overlooked
with us mountain bikers is the zips of a jacket. Now if you’re a road
rider this is far less of a concern because
you clean your jackets and it’s fine. But riding off-road you’re
gonna get sand, grit, and mud all gettin’ in
the way of the zips. Now some zips are a lot finer than others, some of course are a lot chunkier, and less affected by this. Now you need to make
sure the zipper mechanism is fully clean, and if possible you want to lubricate it as well. Now it doesn’t mean dripping some chain oil on your jacket, can’t really do that, it’s not gonna have the right effect. It does depend on the
type of zip you have. If you have a metal zip the graphite that you get in pencils is quite good actually for lubrication. It’s often used by locksmiths
to actually lubricate the inside of locks. Now if you insist on using a pencil it’s not the easiest way of doing it. Make it easier for yourself with a carpenter’s pencil ’cause the lead in them
is quite a lot bigger. But you can get dedicated
graphite in tubs, powdered graphite and it’s much better and it’s really the right thing for using on a metal zip. However, for actually
lubricating a regular zip I’ve found ChapSticks work really well. You can use wax of course to do this and there’s a dedicated
zip lubricant available if you just have a look online it’s easy to find and
it works really well. Can’t recommend doing this enough because I’ve had this happen to me on several old jackets. This is a very fine zip and it actually got clogged up with mud
and one particular ride I just went to zip up and actually ended up tearing the fabric on the inside of the jacket. Really pay attention to your zips and your jackets gonna
last you a long time. Now given the nature of mountain biking you’re gonna tear a jacket here and there and you’re also gonna wear through fabric. So you’re gonna have to do a bit of maintenance and stuff at home. Now this is a pair of old Gortex shorts I’ve had for, I don’t know, for probably six years now and as you can see there a
little bit worse for wear. Just around here you
can see it’s bit damaged to the stitching where the
seam sealing’s coming away. So you can actually
replace the seam sealing from the inside at home
by getting yourself a roll of this stuff. It basically irons on and repairs any seam sealing that’s peeling away. It’s really good stuff to have especially if you’ve invested in
a high-quality jacket. But you can also get dedicated Gore-Tex fabric patches and you can get general fabric patches, like tent-repair patches
that do a really good job of basically patching up these sections that are particularly bad because I have no intention
of getting rid of these. They still do their job on a daily basis when riding to work so I’m gonna use ’em until they literally fall apart. Now a lot of waterproof
jacket manufacturers, and actually technical
clothing manufacturers, offer repair services as
part of their warranty or an extended warranty program. If you’re spending a lot of money on a waterproof jacket
it’s definitely worth checking that because that will be part of your original cost. If you’re out riding for a weekend, you’re on a trip, keep
some Gorilla Tape with you because you could do trail-side repairs on your jacket as this
stuff sticks to most things, of course, when it’s
dry, but it’s waterproof and of course is gonna patch up a hole on the jacket
perhaps if you’ve torn it on some barbwire, or a sharp tree, or if you fall down off your bike and torn a gaping hole in it, this stuff’s amazing. But you can’t beat the
dedicated Gore patches or tent-repair patches and of course that seam-sealing stuff. This stuff is brilliant. So there you go. That’s everything you need to know about lookin’ after and maintaining your waterproof and breathable jackets. Click down here if you wanna see everything about night riding. As always don’t forget to subscribe to Champion and if you like to see me get wet give
us a thumbs up, brrr.

65 thoughts on “Waterproof Care | How To Look After Waterproof Jackets And Shorts

  1. I´ve gore-tex jacket from chainractioncycle. I´ve bought it two months ago. Yes it´s waterproof, but not breathable. I feel sweaty. What´s problem?

  2. 4:55 washing powder
    You're showing the right thing but did not mention to use sport washing agent! Keeps the properties of sports gear.
    I do use silicone spray for my zippers, works fine.
    Great vid! 👍🏻

  3. I've found no sources on nikwax tx.direct wash in being bad for gore tex and many many sources that say they should be used on gore tex. Are you sure they should not be used??

  4. Can’t say enough about Gore Tex… I’ve been wearing the same Gore Tex jacket since 2008! Yes it tends to be an investment but it holds up so well over time that it’s worth it!

  5. Gore is breathable when it's dry outside, not much when you actually need it, when it rains. That's how osmosis works

  6. Most or all Winter clothing indicate not to use fabric softener. I guess they refer to liquid fabric softeners only, but what about dryer sheets (also fabric softener but way more focused on fragrance rather than softening)?

    Also, don't forget that all fabrics with expandex should always use delicate cycle mode (washer and dryer). High heat temperatures (water or air) will ruin the elasticity.

    I've been using fabric softener dryer sheets and so far so good… But still wondering if I'm not messing up my winter clothing little by little…?

  7. Reproofing jackets at home really doesn't work for longer than the first ride after a wash. For the price of the wash-ins it's too expensive to continually reproof. I've all but given up on waterproofs, I much prefer good quality windproofs that dry quickly. My next jacket will be something like Colombia's Outdry – it has the membrane on the outside negating the need for face fabrics and temporary DWR treatments.

    And FTR don't use Bio or Non-bio washing powders – this is common knowledge for outdoor fabrics. Use gentle soap flakes or liquid for wool.

  8. I'm completely blown away by your knowledge of waterproof garment care. I know A LOT about technical garments and you did a fantastic job of educating your audience of the down dirty way(s) to care and repair their beloved rain gear.

  9. Hi love your chanel keep the work up the vid was awesome love the way you made this video it is realy useful keep your work up love it
    I live in Wales
    Bye 👍👌👌☺🚵🚵🚲🚲🚲❄❄❄⛄⛄🌍🌍🌐🌎

  10. I am wondering. Was it Blake on the other end of the hose as a final good by to his previous life not he's an adult? I mean parent.

  11. Hi Guys! I like your videos!
    It's one of the best channels on YouTube with educational content.
    Could you please answer a few questions for me? I’ve been riding
    hardtails for quite a while and I want to switch to all suspension bike. I want buy Giant Trance or Anthem. I'm not going to ride any extreme steep technical trails, just something
    between trail riding or XC racing. And the answer is apparent – Giant
    Anthem. But I’m not sure in the quality of that bike. There are dozens
    of posts on forums and videos with folded broken Anthem's frames. A lot of people
    say that Anthem has very thin and light frame compare to Trance. And
    I’ve never seen or read about broken Trance frame. Can you confirm or deny that information? I want kind of universal bike, so I could have fun on trails and at the same time ride in parks with my family. And last question what’s your recommendation for the bike size? I’m
    6’2” (188cm), 180lb (82Kg). It looks like my size somewhere in between L and XL. Thank You!

  12. Hey Doddy: Gore makes permanent beading jackets now so that it doesn't require DWR treatment. I have the Arc'teryx Norvan rain jacket and it's highly breathable super light and I never have to use DWR~ However, I definitely won't use it for mountain biking. Only for trail jogging in the rain during the spring and summer.

  13. A tip from my scuba diving days. When storing the jacket, leave the slider at the mid point of the zip. That way if it gets stuck, you can manipulate the slider in two directions.

  14. Hi Doddy, I was thinking awesome, my Goretex pro jckt, that no amount of washing with nikwax techwash and similar or all the spray on or wash in reproof dwr can make bead again, can be washed with normal bio detergent. And maybe that wud work…but reading gore website and comments, seem like this is plain wrong? Can u clarify for all with Gore and pin the post. Cheers

  15. Doddy I don't agree sorry. The membrane is not recyclable on gore-Tex and really not that greater product. Why didn't you talk more about sympatex, everyone knows it's so much better and recyclable. Think recyclable should be more featured.

  16. Candle to take care of your zippers. Just take a candle and apply on the contacting parts of the zipper. The wax will help smooth the zip operation.

  17. Cool vid Doddy, I,m always wearing out the stitching in the crotch area of my regular cordura riding shorts and trousers, especially in the winter when that Peak District grinding paste is all over your seat. I have tried a local garment repair shop but they soon split again 🙄 Do you have any tips on what to do? These shorts and pants are not cheap 😒

  18. My 2 years old Shimano MW700 shoes are not waterproof anymore. After 2 hours rain, they are completely filled of water. What can you recommend to reproof them ?

  19. As with any type of kit and Gore-Tex has been around for decades you need to find the right jacket to suit your needs. Yes, it is highly breathable but you can overwhelm the jacket if you are a heavy sweater and with activities that are heavily aerobic, some jackets such as my Northface pac-light shell has zippered vents in the armpits to help dump heat and potentially avoid soaking up on the inside. Plus it's helpful to wear a dry-fit type of undergarment to avoid the membrane from contacting directly on your skin, some of the newer jackets are 3 layers to provide that barrier from the actual membrane. The beauty of Gore-Tex and WindStopper jackets is that they are windproof and keeping the wind and the effects of wind-chill off your core, this will keep you warm on a miserable day. I would suggest Gore's Windstopper because it can vent moisture better than Gore-Tex and is water resistant if you keep up with the DWR, I use Scotchguard, it will keep you dry in a moderate rain. If you don't think Gore product breath, you can always wear a trash bag and see the difference first hand. The most trying problem I ran into with Gore Bike Wear products was the sizing, some products run extremely small, even in XXL, after finally getting someone on the phone here in the U.S. which was a PIA, she related that sizes in the C3 branded items are "normally" sized and the C5 & C7 run small, I'm talking 2 sizes too small. They have an excellent free return policy here in the US, so you can order a few jackets and return the ones that don't fit.

    I just received this Gore product yesterday when they ran their 30% off Black Friday Special:

  20. Great informative video guys, i had no idea regarding fabric conditioner I shall be avoiding that next time we wash kit !

  21. Goretex needs to be washed with tech wash and tech waterproofer.
    If you dont. The gore membrane will be fucked soon. They dont teil you this. Because they want to sell more.

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