THE ULTIMATE FASHION HISTORY: The Middle Ages



but we can't talk about medieval fashion before we talk about the sanctuary laws I've mentioned them to you already haven't I the sanctuary laws were a set of laws that were implemented to ensure that everyone kept to their place on that feudal triangle the sub-query laws included what you could and couldn't eat depending on your social status and they also impacted fashion so for example you could only wear a crown if you were royal if you weren't you weren't allowed to wear a crown and then there were laws about just how much fur you were allowed to wear depending on where you were on that social ladder so maybe this much fur would be okay for one lady but then move further down the ladder oh no fur and then what next hmm bit fancy that velvet cloak no velvet cloak for you moving down the ladder no you can't have a headdress like that you're not posh enough you're not rich enough in the 1300s when buttons were invented there were tons of rules about how many buttons you were allowed to have look at this dress this is called a me party dress we'll look at those in a minute what you're a serf no way are you allowed a me party dress until wow you're left with that the sumptuary laws so really the fashion we're going to be looking at is for those who don't really play in to the sanctuary laws we are looking at what the fashionable people wore because this is what serfs wore for more or less all of the Middle Ages let's start with the 1100 s a time of elongated elegance everything was elongated that was the ideal the ideal body was elongated you see these beautiful elongated statues look how sort of intentionally exaggerated these figures are here absolutely slender and elongated and of course this absolutely reflects because fashion is not an island it's a response medieval spires these gothic spires everything long everything pointy and a long engaged and this would become the fashioned aesthetic of the eleven hundreds the dress was called AB leo and you can spell it with a tee at the end or a day at the end but you don't pronounce either remember France was the dominant culture so French was the dominant language leo these beautiful dresses with these incredibly long exaggerated sleeves we see them here in this painting everything very long and this this desire for things to be sort of stretched and elongated was the reason behind these very long sleeves you see them again here Blio sleeves they're called and here on this recreation and I'll tell you what when I was putting this PowerPoint together I fell in love with the cosplay people the Renaissance Fair people because they really do work hard at recreating authentic medieval costumes so I thank them for it and I will never make fun of cosplay again and here take a look she has the long leo dress with the Blio sleeves and those very very long braids that was the hairdo of the 1100s to have these long braids that helped elongate the whole silhouette like here but it's too easy to imagine that women in the 11-hundred all had knee length thick gorgeous hair that they could braid into these two long plat said they would tie ribbons around they didn't what did they do they used fake hair they would add fake hair to their own little braids fake hair either human hair you know go and say to a serf Oh give me your hair and I'll give you another sheep they would get hair that way probably they would add fake hair just to help elongate this silhouette men in the eleven hundred s did the same tunics were very long hair was long take a look at this this is a split tunic men would sometimes wear blue sleeves too but more generally they had tight sleeves leaving all of the length to the tunic like this and as I just mentioned hair was very long for men in the eleven hundred s often worn in a ponytail let's look at hair and headdresses what we looked at here let's look at headdresses it was all about the wimple I'll explain what a wimple is in a second there were two ways of achieving the headdress look the first was with a hood like this over which you would wear a wimple and a wimple is really just a long piece of fabric sometimes linen sometimes silk which you would then pin through the hood alternatively you could wear a fillet like this it looks like bandages doesn't it it's it's not there's nothing wrong with her it is a fillet it's sort of an undergarment if you will for a wimple this one has something called a Barbet the French for beard is barb you're going to find an awful lot of French words when we look at fashion in the Middle Ages under the chin and you would pin your wimple to that and then if you wanted to to keep it in place you would use a circlet this just sort of band a metallic band that you would slip over your head to keep your whimper in place and also because it was very pretty do you like wimple x' I think they're great when you see them on a Blio like this I think it is such an elegant elongated look why a wimple for religious reasons of course you cover your head and deference to the Lord but also it was a very elegant look that helped with that elongated silhouette there was a change in the 1200s when it was all about a lovely layering this is how costume in the twelve hundreds functioned you would start with this a curtal remember we met the curtain when we did the Dark Ages it was spelt differently and it meant something else came from the Vikings this is a medieval kurtal it's just a very simple long-sleeved dress and under dress over which you would wear a silk coat a sir coat you can see it has a very deeply cup sides it was quite loose not really a pinafore and you would slip it over your kettle to get this elegant layering here is another example of a curtal and Sukkot and here it is in medieval art and I like this image because you can see just how loose this circle was and how it functioned at the sides an awful lot of room are there and this was the look for men as well sometimes the kurtal and surcoat could be very simple sometimes they could be very fancy but this was the look this was deliberate layering for fashion purposes let's look at hair and headdresses in the 1200 because we really are moving away a little bit from the wimple yes we still have the Barbet and the filet but this is joined in the 1200 by the crisp Annette or cowl this was a decorative hairnet that would as the 12 hundreds led into the 1300 become very odd indeed look at this the very decorative fillet which has a veil at the back but look at the crispiness at the side now these were undoubtedly made with fake hair false hair to give these two huge buns over the ears very odd however I rather like it does it remind you of a very famous movie hairdo you may have once seen if it does hold that thought because we will be looking at that at the very end but I think this is rather an elegant look she has those huge crisp Annette buns at the side of her head she doesn't have a fillet she just has a circlet and the Barbet feature is comes by way of her veil but I think this is a rather flattering and elegant look but it is odd not as odd as what the boys were doing though in the 1200 men wore these little crafts we saw the quacks earlier on but it's their hair that was odd take a look at these hairdos they had a dural a fringe a Doral a fringe which was a short curled fringe they would curl it with curling tongs and then they would bob their hair and curl them upwards at the bottom and sure Doris Day had a similar hairdo in the 50s it's very odd but we really see fashion and trends and fads at a height here don't we moving into the 1300s something incredible happened in terms of fashion history suddenly clothing was being tailored to fit the form really form-fitting and this was achieved through various means but one of the things that allowed it to happen was the invention of the button think about it tunics by the definition of a tunic cannot be too tight you have to pull them on over your head also if you lace them if you don't put if you lace them to tighten them you still need to get your arms through in order to lace them up in the first place think about it buttoning can tighten the garment when it's already on your body so this was the absolute look of the 1300s things tailored to fit the form not everything had buttons and remember not everybody was allowed buttons because of the sub-query laws but you can see this is a much more form-fitting look and this dress this form-fitting tailored dress of the 1300s is called a coat rd a coat daddy it was worn over your kurtal which was also tailored to be quite tight at this point the coat rd that is the name of the dress and here it's a wonderful medieval image of two ladies with coat Aldi's and look how look how this sits quite far down on the shoulders nearly off the shoulders again this was possible because of tailoring and look at that very long row of buttons she has you can tell she is really quite high up the feudal ladder to have so many buttons as is she and I love this image you can really see these coat our DS in detail here look at the embroidery on each and again look at that very low scooped neckline and here Thank You kospi cosplay people is a contemporary reproduction of a coat ID from the 1300s and then chews started to wear clothes that were tailored to fit the form like this this is very different to that tunic we've been seeing for the last few hundred years isn't it it was about fitting the form and this was new and the then things started to get a little bit jazzy they're going to get very jazzy soon in the 1400s but in the 1300s we start seeing this detail come in I'm sure you have seen this scalloped kind of leaf shaped detail before it has a name it's called these are called DAGs you can spell them the French way or the English way and this is called Dagon remember that it's important Dagon we're going to look at an awful lot but the 1,300 gave men something that you better get used to because we're going to see it for the next few hundred years the doublet and hose again it was all about fitting the form the doublet and hose which is which I'm sure you can guess this is a doublet and these are hose basically very tight sort of types really hose stockings they could be made out of wool they could be made out of silk usually they were made out of wool and a doublet which often had little puppy sleeves and was very tight to the body and buttoned up the front it could also be laced like this guy here but you see the puffy leg-of-mutton sleeve and how it's just a completely different silhouette isn't it to that tunic that we've been seeing for so long now his doublet will fasten up the back but again you can see the big puffy leg-of-mutton sleeves and you also see the ruching this is a very Italian look because don't forget there were regional differences throughout Europe in the Middle Ages a lot of ruching and we'll even see padding the first doublet I showed you the blue one with the silver dogs that actually is padded fashion tying so you better believe it here is obviously a doublet from a recent runway see it's very form-fitting with the puffy leg-of-mutton sleeves and here are some hose this is really the doublet and hose I love this but look at the Dagon so obviously the designer here was inspired by the Middle Ages we have hose and we have Dagon and we have a tunic all right I am sure you have seen these shoes before I know I have mentioned them to you before they are called pool and pool and shoes these date from the late Middle Ages and this is what they looked like only men wore them they had extremely long toes and as I think I mentioned to you before the length of the toe was supposed to reflect the length of a man's penis false advertising yet again but we're going to see a lot of this in this course and yeah yeah the Poulin enough said about that let's look at hair and head dresses the 1300 saw some very odd looks it started like this with these two kind of rectangular braids in the front of the head with a circlet around them but then we see you very quickly this is a sculpture that these became something completely different basically it was a circlet right and the coals on either side were made of metal and stuffed with either thick hair or wool a very strange look and for men the hood I'm sure we associate a costume of the Middle Ages with this particular hood with a very very long pointless tail on it again it's all just about high fashion this has a name it's called le repipe this kind of hood is called a leery pipe so we are really seeing some very odd things going on aren't we and I love this illustration from the Middle Ages of somebody being pulled back by the tail of his lira pipe for drinking somebody else's boobs by the looks of it and about to be hit over the head I want to talk to you about one of the craziest fashion fads from the 1300s that would continue into the 1400 so let's get the party started see what I did there party with an I party from the French and means partitioned shared hard party and this is a meat party dress me party middle parted a me party dress em I pa rt I was a garment as you can see that was constructed out of two different fabrics often contrasting quite dramatically like here or here on this guy's doublet he's got a meat party doublet and look at his pants meat party one leg is one color one leg is another color and look at this little girl here with her knee party dress he's gone me party mad I love this it's so insane he's got stripes on one side solid on the other and this is a very grandiose in me party dress so tonight we're gonna party like it $13.99 see I did it again gotta stop with the puns here are some examples of medieval meat party fashion today basically it's color blocking isn't it and I love this by the way just a point about a color blocking these are all color blocked wearing a green skirt and a blue top is not color blocking that's just wearing two garments that are different colors again fashion writers consistently get this wrong and we'll call an outfit that has separates made of different colors color blocking no color blocking is me party it's when a garment contains two contrasting textiles or two contrasting colors so let's look at fashion in the last of our medieval centuries the 1400s fashions first victims what do I mean by that oh nothing much what's wrong with this picture they look stupid that's what's wrong with his picture fashion got ridiculously extreme in the 1400s much to the chagrin of the church as you could imagine oh my goodness there were so many complaints from the church about just how extravagant and wild fashion was becoming take a look at these garments they're off the chain the big garment of the fourteen hundreds was the Hooper land which is so much fun to say please remember it the Hooper land it was an outer garment with enormous sleeves sometimes they had Dagon sometimes they had fur sometimes they were just so enormous you could trip on them the Hooper land also an item came into play called the hoop even spell at the French way with the quue or the English way hu ke the hoop was basically a loose kind of flappy tunic that a man would pull over a woman could wear a hoop shoe but mainly they were for men and it was just another excuse to have more clothing on and what are we seeing here for the very first time ever collars think about collars is there any reason that you have a collar on a garment no collars are purely decorative the collar was invented in the 1400s and as an excuse to have more stuff going on because people of the 1400s were fashions first victim les was not more let me tell you until we get about halfway through the century here are some contemporary contemporaneous images of some incredible Hooper lands from the 1400s a look at how long those lemurs are look at all that Dagon then when we get about halfway through the century things calm down a bit and women's fashion takes on a very particular look this you see it replicated time and time again ignore the ridiculous headdresses for the time being and look at that v-neck that v-neck line and that quite high waistline we can't call it on peer because we can't call anything on peer until Napoleon's Empire but it's sort of a high waistline with a v-neck these are still who plans these would still be worn over a turtle in fact you can see the kurtal x' beneath so it's all kind of layered but an awful lot of fabric but I think really quite an elegant dress and here is this particular Hooper land reproduced and I think it's really rather lovely especially here isn't that beautiful sometimes this v-neck line could be fur this one has urn on it and I think this is rather rather gorgeous let's look at hair and headdresses in the 1400s because this is when it reached its height and I mean that quite literally the men the chaperone chaperone was the Hat it was a very large kind of scrunchie hat with lots of Rick and the there would be a piece of fabric that would drape around the neck sort of like a scarf sometimes they had Dagon on them like this chaperon here very floppy very large but it was really women's headdresses that get all the attention during the 1400s this is called a Brule a buckle a again with the French you see basically these are horns with they could have a veil down the back and often did or you could wear them without a veil rather strange but not as strange as this this is a conical hemin this type of headdress is called a hemin this is a conical henan this is a truncated or cone henan and no spectacular of all I think is this the butterfly henan so Henin's were the absolute headdress that we associate with the Middle Ages aren't they even though they happened at the very end of the Middle Ages and they got ridiculously large this is not an exaggeration this is how large and how silly they would get the 1400s today of course remember this v-neck Hoople and that really was the dress of the mid to late 1400s well we see this dress time and time again the cut is so flattering on a woman that it's no wonder it's become a perennial favorite take a look at this Dior Hooper land and okay this is not that particular v-neck dress but this is based on the Hooper land look at the sleeves in fact this is a me party isn't it because the lining is black and the rest of the dress is red wow he's got big Hooper land sleeves doesn't he obviously inspired completely by the 1400s and the hooper land but i want to focus just for one second on this dress and let's play okay this is the dress from the mid to late 1400s this is a reproduction thank you cosplay folk and here is a beautiful Elie Saab I think runway runaway dress a gorgeous dress but look it takes nothing at all for us to take this dress and put it back in the 1400s all we need to do is add a thicker waistband a v-neck fur collar and a Henin look it's the same dress what is beautiful today was beautiful in the 1,400 some things never change and it's when we now put her in the right setting suddenly you realize that nothing changes Henin's oh yeah sure Henin's are still in on the runway not that anybody will ever wear them but take a look at these recent runway inspired by the Henin and look at her lipstick that's an attractive makeup look isn't it I'm a slightly more sensible Henin there but why anybody would want to walk around with a plastic cone on their head I don't know and of course take a look at this Alexander McQueen but very inspired I think by the Henin but I don't think that we will ever go back to the Beauty aesthetic of the 1400s take a look at this girl she's quite pretty isn't she actually she looks a bit like Nicole Kidman I think she would not have been considered at all beautiful in the 1400s why she's got too much hair the first thing that women did in the 1400s to be fashionable and beautiful they plucked their hair line way back like this but you know what she's still not pretty enough for the 1400s so she would have plucked out all of her eyebrows and all of her eyelashes there we go now she's pretty enough for the 1400s and if we put a Henin on her with a nice veil that is the beauty aesthetic of the late Middle Ages and you see it played out time and time again in paintings such a weird look to us there were reasons why people liked this look this look was popular in Northern Europe and I think that it was popular because at this time in history Spain was becoming a very dominant power and I think that northern European women wanted to look as unspin –is– as possible that's one possible reason a very strange look

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *