Suit Coat Sleeve Hemming – Part 2


We’re going to hem suit coat sleeves
today a rascally job in my opinion but I’m going to show you how to do it with
ease and comfort and who knows maybe it’ll become your favorite job. The sleeves
need to be shortened a good one and a half inches. Ideally you’re never going
to shorten much more than an inch and a half because then the placket gets too
short and looks funny, and that’s talking about hemming up. Now when it comes to
letting down a suit coat you seldom really can. That’s because of this
angular seam here at the button placket. It’s going to become more apparent as we
go along. Meanwhile, let’s just start by chalking off that one and a half inches. First, though, I’m gonna pop off these buttons. Now we’ll mark. Release the lining. Now pull that lining
out, and this sleeve pulls out all the way, Sometimes they’re attached right about
here and then you can’t pull it out quite all the way, so that now I can work
off its one and a half inches You can kind of see the chalk line where the
new fold line will be and I’m going to trim now close to it just like it was at
the original fold line about three-eighths inch out. I’m gonna give it
a good half inch I think. Before trimming I am going to press under the new fold
line. I press under first because then I can see better than that slight chalk
line where to cut. As you can see, I prefer pinking shears. Now if you need to talk
out where to cut, that’s what you do. I’m just gonna eyeball it. Now back to the
sleeve. We’re going to need to get all this apart too. Sometimes you find on suits it’s loose here. No, they sewed it up quit a ways and we need to get that loose in order to access all of this that’s originally folded up, get it pressed up to the new fold line and back into place. There now, it’s all free up to the top
of the pleat or vent. Next we’re going to rip out this angular seam and this
straight seam here. And the original manufacturer may have
basted it here so get all that out until it’s really just all flapping
loose here. Now I’m not crazy about this extra piece here that I don’t usually
run into. See the lighter color underneath? That’s plenty, and this is
about how far we’re going to go up, that’s plenty of interfacing, that’s
really all we’re going to need. So I’m going to rip off this kind of cruddy
stuff here. In this instance, we can now cut along the old fold line, that’s
because it’s magically the one and a half inches deep that this new fold line
is going to be. If it wasn’t, you would measure out and chalk that line and cut it. Now here I am almost trimmed, and I want
to show you see this angular seam that we took out a little bit ago. This is why
you can’t usually let down a sleeve. The chalk line would extend to here if we
were doing it this way and we would fold it up but, boy, there wouldn’t be enough
room here, would there, to be the true one-and-a-half inch hem that we need it
to be. So that’s why you can seldom let down. The only way you can let down is if
the manufacturer left all this square right here instead of at an angle. Now
I’m gonna pick out all these old threads and press up at the new fold line
including all the way across where that old angle was. I’m going to use my old
beat-up a sleeve board, which I can’t be without, so use yours if you have one.
Otherwise if you don’t, just get all this pressed under. Make sure everything is
crisply pressed and matching. Next we’re going to do the one and only thing that
we do on the machine, the rest of the work is all hand stitching. Now not on
the angular seam side, but the other side, fold back on the new fold line and
stitch all this together That’ll be your first sharp point. Once
all sewn, pop it right-side out as sharply as you can to a point. Next we’re
going to tackle that angular seam, yes, we’re going to accomplish that, too. And
here’s how you get that done. Have the wrong side facing you and then tip the
angle so that it’s horizontal to you. Now, see this point here? crucial! Fold this
down right to that tippy point right down to it. Once you’ve done that, see how
this fold line matches up with this fold line and this fold line matches up with
that fold line. That’s how you know that you’re right on the money.
Now, when you’re new it this, probably works best to capture that point right here
with a pin and work that pin and vertically. Okay? All nice and captured that way I’ll simply fold in on those existing fold
lines one side, capture it with a pin, vertically works well, then go and fold
the other side in and capture it with a pin. So how’s my
point looking? Well, not so sharp, it’s a little square up here, so you simply keep
adjusting until you get it. I’m just continuing on refolding it until I’ve
got a nice crisp point right there, we’re gonna hand sew all this, and then it will be done. From this point
forward, be forever checking to make sure everything matches and is even. So I’m
going to kind of fold this down, awkward as it is, it seems like it’s going to be
good. If in the end it’s not, I’ll go and redo the easier side which was the
straight seam rather than fuss around with this. So let’s get on to hand sewing
this together. So with a single strand (in the) needle, I’m just gonna kind of start
below the point and bury my knot below the point. I just don’t want that to be
sticking out at the top, and then I’m just going to neatly go across with as
tiny stitches as possible all the way down and they can be kind of far apart
because you can always come back up again if you feel like there’s too much
gap in between stitches. Don’t worry too much if your stitches do
kind of show, this is all going to be hidden underneath. The main thing is that
we have this sweet sharp point. So I’m going to continue down now the rest of
the way and I’ll see you down at the bottom. So let’s see how I did, take the pins out.
This is looking pretty nice here. It’s this side that we are mostly concerned
about. Yeah, that looks like a good sharp point, about as sharp as you’re going to
be able to get it, sometimes the manufacturers can get it sharper than
that. You. as the alteration specialist, if you can get that, that is good. Now
because we’re forever checking to make sure everything’s even and matchy-matchy, well, I got lucky I got lucky because
sometimes one side or the other can extend down just a teensy bit just
enough to bother me. I’ll press that and that’s gonna be good. See now how the
vent isn’t all that deep and the buttons when we put them on are probably going
to extend up beyond the vent a little bit, but that’s just the way it is when
it comes to shortening and if you have to shorten substantially. When the sleeve
had cooled off and pressing, I did go ahead and pin the two layers together
from the front just so they aren’t flapping around now when we go to deal
with the lining that’s been waiting patiently for its turn to be placed. So
here comes the lining through and now let’s turn this wrong side out. Here we
are wrong side out and we want to make sure like seam is matched up to like seam so
there will be two seams to make sure they match here’s the one that goes to
the underarm seam and here is the seam that’s pretty much gonna go matching up
with the edge of the nice point you just made, okay? So where on earth does it end
up landing though? I’ll tell you! Refer to the other sleeve that you haven’t done
yet and that’s why this is a good time to say just do one sleeve at a time
don’t do one step on one sleeve and then one
step on the other sleeve and back and forth. No, do one sleeve in its entirety
so that you have the manufacturers original seem to refer to on the first
one and then when you’ve done this one, great, you’ll have that to refer to when
you need to for this sleeve. So all I have to do now is measure in how much
this is, it’s probably- that looks like it’s a little over one inch. Once I measure for sure, I will then chalk that in on the new sleeve that
we’re doing. Once I draw that line, then I’ll know exactly where to put this up
to, yes, I will. See? Here’s that line all the way around, it ended up to be about
1- 1/8 inch, so now all I have to do is pin this on. All pinned now, and I’m
going to use the lighter color thread to sew this as invisibly as I can. Here’s
the lining all attached now, I sort of wish maybe I hadn’t used the pinking
shears, I used the pinking shears usually on the dark lining because then the
zigzag doesn’t show through, but it’s not that big of a deal, just a little detail.
You can always press down some blousing there was excess here. If you like, as is
seen the sleeve we haven’t done yet you can always press that blousing down and
we didn’t end up basting the sleeve in place like the manufacturer did. We
really don’t need to, this isn’t going to come down. Why? Because when I came to
this point on the lining attachment I made sure the needle went through both
thicknesses not so that it can be seen but I went through the seam of the right
side as well as catching the wrong side See how that’s all attached there,
that’s what you want. That way nothing’s going to come down and I pretty much did
the same thing over here kind of sorta. All right, all that remains is button
placement. Make it as simple as you can, folks,
develop your own system or do like I do. Lay the sleeve needing to be buttoned up
to the one with the buttons. Now, aren’t we glad we didn’t do step by step each
sleeve so that these buttons remain for our reference and I’m just going to
eyeball because I usually make out okay this way, and that should be about accurate, I can
always adjust as I go. Now, when you go to sew the buttons on you’re going to
endeavor to not go through the lining layer just like the manufacturer. Didn’t
I’ll probably get away with not having to to go through the lining layer I’ve
finally gotten practiced enough that I don’t. The first times you go to do it,
don’t worry about it if it’s just too hard. Go through the lining layer, just
try to make it as neat as you can nobody’s gonna see it and you’ll be good
to go as long as you don’t scrunch up the lining, okay? I’ll be back in a flash
to show you how I made out with button sewing. I’m all finished now and pretty
excited. Can you tell which sleeve is mine and which one is the manufacture’rs?
Yeah, this one right here. Not bad. The only way you can tell the difference is
because this vent is not as deep as the manufacturer’s. So I encourage you folks
to just go ahead and do this for yourselves. You can do it! Every good luck. Good job!

14 thoughts on “Suit Coat Sleeve Hemming – Part 2

  1. Oh thank you very much for showing us, it is very clever of you . I love the way you show us ,you make it very clear and easy. Thank you .

  2. She should have said to do ONE SLEEVE AT A TIME. 15 min in she tells us that's the best way to do it. Good video all around though!!

  3. Your directions were fantastic and really easy for follow. Thank you for that! One question: Why don't you sew the buttons back on the coat before you sew the lining back in so that you don't have to worry about catching the lining when sewing? Is there a reason for this? Would the lining not lay as flat?

  4. amazing video, good quality video, very well explanation and expectation information. I feel confident enought to try with an old suit jacket i have before altering my main jackets. Thank you so much for this. I have so many jackets haha tailoring can become really pricey.

  5. Why wouldn't you sew on the buttons before sewing down the lining? I'm thinking of trying to do my husbands jackets, he doesn't get them tailored and he needs to!

  6. You video was very nicely done. I was able to focus my attention thru the video’s entirety. Thank you.
    Julie’s Custom Sewing

  7. As a man, I will do all this with just super glue and a beer. This time making sure to drink the beer, and not the glue.

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