Sewing a Coat, A Sew Along. Part 9, Joining the Front to the Back


Making The Classic Roll Collar Coat Part 9 Joining the Front to the Back Firstly join the fronts by stitching
the collar sections together at the centre back seam This is where we see the start of the Roll Collar forming This goes round the back forming the under collar So we join the two fronts together
at the centre back of the under collar So pin rights sides together
and machine along this seam Then press open In preparation for the next stage
we snip into the corners at the shoulder point Snip as close as you can to the re-enforcing stitching
at the tailor’s tack This enables you to spread the seam for machining So here we have our back, right side up We place the joined fronts on top Lining up the centre backs
we are going to pin around the back neck edge and then across the shoulder seam So I am going to start at the neck point
matching the tailor’s tacks here and pin along the shoulder Then the same with the other side
making sure the tailor’s tacks match Pin the centre back point and then around the curve of the back neck You will find the seam lines fall into place
if you have cut your pattern accurately Try and get a pin exactly at the position
of the tailor’s tacks This is where we will pivot when we machine I think this is the trickiest part of this coat so take your time Use more pins if you want to We will be machining from one shoulder point around back neck edge to the other shoulder point So at the machine, stitch slowly you want to make sure that your stay stitching
remains within the seam allowance **Sewing Over Pins! Please review
my New Guidelines Visit angelakane.com When you reach the tailor’s tack
and the point of your re-enforcing stitches with the needle down
pivot and stitch along the back neck edge Adjust the fullness
so that you are not stitching over folds of fabric Slowly over pins as usual This is a good closeup
and shows you quite clearly how to tackle this step Once we remove all the pins
we need to do some trimming and clip curves We can see from these closeups
that the corners are pretty neat If your corners aren’t as good, don’t worry too much
as this area is partially hidden by the finished collar The neck edge is clipped
so that it will spread out when pressed open All the unnecessary fabric within the seam
is trimmed away to reduce bulk Trimming these corners away
will improve the finish on the right side Be careful though, if your fabric frays easily
don’t get too close to the stitching line Now pressing this seam is one of the awkward jobs I like to use my sleeve board or a tailor’s ham Anything that helps you
isolate the section you want to press I also find it’s best to use a small piece of pressing cloth That’s one shoulder seam pressed I’m flattening that corner as best I can
and pressing along the back neck edge Mind your fingers of course Then the other corner at the neck point That’s not at all bad Here it is on the stand
to show the progress of the Roll Collar It looks a bit flimsy without the interfaced top collar but it gives you an idea of how this particular collar works It’s going to look great Next we are going to add the front facings
to complete the Roll Collar Sewing Tutorials supported by
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