Sewing a Coat, A Sew Along. Part 11, Trim Seams & Turn the Collar Through


Making The Classic Roll Collar Coat Part 11 Trim Seams and Turn Collar Through We need to trim and clip the seam allowance
all the way round the outer edge so that we have a nice crisp finish when we turn through We want to do a graduated trim for best results The seam allowance of the facing
that forms the outer collar, we want to trim back less The seam allowance of the lower facing
That’s the part without interfacing we want to trim back more This reduces the risk of a ridge around the collar
and down the front of the coat when this edge is pressed This is a Graduated Trim I’m trimming back to a ¼ ” or so Here again I’m reducing the bulk at this crossing seam So continue trimming up to the point
where the collar rolls Then I’m turning the coat over and trimming the
seam allowance of the under collar back to ¼“ Most importantly, mitre the collar points One cut across the point, as close as is comfortable then cut again across the angles on either side Then we need to take some clips out of this curve And also snip this curved edge
to get a nice flat edge when turned through So snip up to the collar point where the seam allowance
needs to stretch when turned through Take notches out here, where the seam allowance
needs to contract when turned through Remember the rules Grade your seam allowances
clip inner curves and notch out curves I’m going to take off a little more from the collar curve That will turn nicely I quite like to use a wooden knitting needle for this job
It’s not too sharp at the point Then using it to push out the seam
This is best done as you press So we will be pushing out the seam
all the way along and pressing as we go So before turning, press the front edge
up to the seam allowance then fold and roll the seam line very slightly to the inside That looks good
A nice crisp edge and the seam is hidden When you get to the collar itself, you want to
encourage the seam to the underside of the collar With practice you can do this very quickly It pays to get it right at this stage I’m showing this process with no editing cuts so that you can see that it is just a question
of doing it a bit at a time Just press bit by bit
until you are happy with the curve of the collar All the time keeping an eye on that seam line
so that it remains to the underside That’s looking good
Now continue down the front edge A great result A quick look at the results of our efforts on the stand Next, we will sew the two seam allowances together
at the back neckline The seams are pressed open We want to match the corners
and pin the seam allowances together Then using matching thread
back stitch the seam allowances together It doesn’t have to be neat Use smallish stitches
to keep these seams from separating You could do this at the sewing machine
but you have more control if you stitch by hand Secure at the shoulder point This will keep the collar in good shape The next step is to apply some bonding
to stop these layers from separating We could top stitch
which is what I like to do more often than not but this time
I rather fancy the crisp plain edge of the linen Before we had modern bonding materials
we would catch stitch our interfacing in place initially we would then catch stitch the facing to the interfacing doing our best not to have stitches
showing on the right side But the modern way is to use something like this
which fuses fabrics together So we need only fuse our layers from about here
to the hem line or just above Folding back the facing
place the bonding web about here We want to leave enough of the facing free
so that we can attach the lining We need a bit of damp for this job
so set your iron to steam and iron until bonded If you are using a different product
check the manufacturers instructions It’s pretty well bonded but it’s best left to dry I’m going to hand baste along the front edges
to keep them in place until the garment is finished Do the other side the same The next job is to attach our pocket bag Sewing Tutorials supported by
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