Sari Silk Nuno Felt Jacket, made with resist and The Gentle Roller


Hello everybody the project we’re
tackling today is a jacket using a resist it’s taken from Felting Fashions
by Lizzie Houghton that’s where we borrowed the template from but the process will be a little bit of hers a little bit of ours. Joan’s cut up some silk saris and given them a gentle wash and iron the template is 2.7 meters x 1.4 meters. We are going to lay up the back of the jacket to start with by covering it with sari silk an overlap of about three or four inches
from the edge of the template all the way around except the collar and the bottom which won’t overlap and the arm holes won’t overlap So we are going to lay up the fabric and we will be with you in a minute Before we continue we’d
like to share three deliberate decisions that made this piece as difficult as
possible to roll and one major cock up that we wouldn’t recommend our viewers
try First was the choice of old sari silk for the nuno silk sari has a much
tighter weave than silk georgette or cotton muslin or gauze or the
purpose-built for nuno silk mesh as such migrating the fibers through the
multiple layers of sari silk can be rather a challenge. Second in Lizzy Houghton’s book Felting Fashion she recommends sewing the fabric pieces together so
they don’t move however we left the pieces loose and
slightly overlapped trusting that they won’t move too much in the Gentle Roller.
Third placing the sari pieces first on the resist with the wool laid on top
makes it impossible to check until the resist is taken out. Finally we made a
very bad choice for a resist PVC pool liner is not a suitable
resist as it has no give. An ideal resist should be pliable and roll easily.
Well here we are with our back laid with sari silk fabric. It looks like a Kimono.
Looks very interesting and Joan’s going to wet the fabric down so it doesn’t move and is a little more stable and then lay on the wool What wool are we using?
Short hair superfine merino in a matching colourway I’ve chosen the fabric to match the wool.
Alright so we’ll come back when we’ve done the lay-up. When Joan’s done the lay-up. The garment was begun from the back laying sari pieces and overlapping the resist
by around five centimeters then two very fine layers of short-haired super fine
merino were laid on the fabric pieces overlapping the resist by only 2
centimeters thus leaving some fabric exposed, the whole piece was wet down
and covered with painter’s drop sheet air bubbles were gently pressed out and the
surface rub to ensure that it is thoroughly wet through the piece was rolled onto
a pool noodle and unrolled onto the other side, not flipped, so that the
fronts could be laid. The sari and wool that had overlapped the resists was carefully
folded onto the front of the resist the right side was laid with sari pieces
and merino first, extending the sari and will be on the center of the neckline 7
to 8 centimeters, then it was wet down and covered with painters plastic and
the left side of the jacket was laid with sari and merino. This side was
also laid with an overlap of 7 to 8 centimeters to create a lapel, in total
a 15 centimeter overlap was created then the left side was also wetted down
gently pressed to release air bubbles and rubbed to ensure thorough wetting edges were pushed against the resist to
ensure a ridge doesn’t form where the back meets the front. To fit such a large
piece on the Gentle Roller the larger 1400 millimeter was used, the sleeves
were folded in and it was carefully taken up on the drive roller the bundle was rolled a set number of
cycles then it was opened and any creases caused by the folding were massaged out
and the edges were pushed against the resist before refolding and rolling again.
Different types of folds were used but the folding, rolling, rubbing, pattern was
repeated until the fabric was secure enough to be taken off the PVC resist
once off the resist it was noticed that a few sari pieces had moved and created
thin spots which were patched up before painter’s drop sheet was put inside the
garment to replace the hard resist and stopped the two sides and sleeve from
felting together. Again different folds were used and the garment was taken up in various directions to ensure it felted evenly eventually when the pre-felt was stable enough
all the plastic was removed and the garment was rolled
in between towels to remove the excess moisture before being line dried. I
wanted it dry for a thorough inspection everything seemed okay so after a quick
modelling of the pre-felt it was then wetted down again for some
further cycles of rolling All the inner plastic resists were taken out before fulling began although the garment was kept supported by the outer plastic sheeting for its initial tumbles in the Rumbler or fulling drum the pre-felt was bundled concertina style every 150 tumbles it was taken out,
inspected, edges were checked the whole piece was kept wet and soaped, the lapel
edges were hand rolled to ensure they were even those hand touches and finishes that differentiate good quality felt from ordinary felt are not relinquished and like magic the jacket had shrunk to
25% of the original surface area the finished jacket is wondrously soft yet
warm and finely textured

4 thoughts on “Sari Silk Nuno Felt Jacket, made with resist and The Gentle Roller

  1. Lovely work. Ambitious project! What material didi you Kay the garment on to work on it? It looks like wax paper. Thanks

  2. this is fantastic! I'm a new felter and have a large needle felt machine that I can do yardage on, but it still has to have a wet finish. This might be perfect for me. Definitely something I'm going to think about.

  3. Thank you for making this video and for showing the problems. I've been wanting to make a jacket but didn't want to sew pieces together and wasn't sure how to get started.

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