Men’s Jackets & Waist Suppression – Tailoring An Off The Rack Men’s Suit – Menswear Alterations


Men’s Jackets & Waist Suppression – Tailoring
An Off The Rack Men’s Suit – Menswear Alterations Hi! I’m Antonio Centeno, the founder of Real
Men Real Style. Today, we’re going to be talking about waist suppression in a men’s jacket. If you haven’t already, please subscribe to
our YouTube channel. By doing that, these videos will come right to you. In addition,
if you like this video, if you find it useful, I would appreciate it if you would like it
down below. And last but not least, if you want to learn more about men’s style, make
sure to grab our free 47-page e-book. Every day, I get “thank you’s”, people telling me
what they love about this e-book. I’m also going to link you to an article which talks
more about how to get your jacket adjusted when you go to a tailor. This is the question that came in. “Antonio,
I just bought an off-the-rack navy blazer and after reading your articles, I was glad
to know what to ask the tailor for. Every man should know this. How exactly though should
the waist be tailored? The tailor said he’ll take some fabric off the back to make the
jacket tighter, but I don’t know if he’s going to taper it exactly how I want it. I remember
seeing pins all the way up the back of the jacket. Should I ask him to taper the waist
more? How can I know if the waist and the blazer as well was tailored correctly? I’ve
never had a properly fitted jacket before, so I’m not sure what I should be looking for
or if he even does a good job.” That was my friend, Jessie. I believe he’s
up north in Canada. So Jessie is new into this game and I also know Jessie is really
at a point where he’s still very price-conscious and is putting a lot of time and investment
into learning about men’s style, and that’s the first thing, is he knew what to ask for.
He even has a pretty good idea of what to look for, but what Jessie doesn’t know and
he doesn’t own is already a jacket that fits him really well, so he doesn’t know
what a good fitting jacket actually feels like and truly looks on his body. My first point with this, Jessie, is that
you’re going to have to go with it. You’re going to have to experiment and you can’t
expect perfection the first time. Working with a tailor, it’s like any type of business
relationship. You’ve got to feel it out. You’ve got to go back and forth and really you want
to plant the seeds for a long fruitful relationship. My first bit of advice is don’t expect — I
think in today’s society, we’ve come to expect — I mean, companies like Google provide us
amazing applications for free and we come to expect that from a lot of other things
that we get them almost for free. You’ve got to expect though with a tailor, we’re a bit
more old school and we can’t remind — we’ll do the best we can, but it’s really what you’re
doing is you’re trading dollars for their time. So if you do need a second adjustment,
expect to pay for this, but that’s okay because what you’re looking to do is get this first
jacket perfect. A good tailor, maybe he’ll have to adjust
it two times. There are some tailors that will get lucky and get it right the first
time, but I can tell you, having worked with thousands of men and design suits for them,
even though I think I’m going to get it perfect and I look at the pictures and I think the
fit is perfect, when a man puts on a jacket, it’s a very personal thing. Fit is incredibly
personal. The tailor may look at you and he may think it looks perfect, but you had a
different picture in your mind. Again, we’re not mind-readers, so you’re going to have
to put on that jacket, look at yourself in the mirror, and see how that feels and then
ask for any adjustments you need. Now, if you came to me, as a custom clothier,
I would provide those alterations again and again for free, but you came to this gentleman
for the alterations, so you’re going to have to pay for the second. Hopefully you won’t
have to pay for the third. Beyond that, he should be getting really close. You’ll have
to work that out with him and it depends on the tailor, but expect to pay for the second
round of alterations, but that’s okay because all of a sudden, you now have a jacket that
fits you really well, so the next time you go in to work with that tailor, you wear that
jacket when you go see him again. That way, he can remember and he can also even measure
that jacket and know, okay, this is what this gentleman wants. This is what this gentleman
likes. So let’s go and I’m going to start answering
questions about what kind of waist suppression you should look for and what does waist suppression
even mean. From your chest down to your waist to your hips, what we see — as guys, we look
around. Yes, you notice that women have the hourglass figure. Well, to an extent, a healthy
male somewhat has that, although his hips are not nearly as wide and the difference
in his chest is more from the sides than in the front. Well, hopefully if you’re a normal
guy. Okay, I’m not going to go there. The point is that if you have a larger chest
and a smaller waist, then you want your jacket to reflect that. You don’t want to be cartoonish
though and you don’t want to have your clothing fit so tight that it’s starting to look feminine.
So a good tailor is going to balance that. Most jackets are going to have it especially
if you buy one that’s got an athletic build, and if they say athletic build, oftentimes
it doesn’t mean that it’s going to have more waist suppression. What that means is
that the trousers that are paired with it are just going to be a little bit smaller,
so don’t fall for that. Be really careful. What you want to look for is if you have that
athletic build, that very young man or a man that takes care of himself, masculine shape,
then you want your jacket to somewhat reflect that. If you look on the jacket I’m wearing
right here, you can occasionally see a bit of light right in here on the video. That’s
because this jacket isn’t square. There is about a 4.5 to 6-inch drop. I have to actually
pull this. I’ve got that variation with my jackets between the chest size and the waist
size even though on my body, there’s a little bit more, so it’s actually a little bit looser
in the waist area and it’s a little bit closer fitting in the chest area. This is the fit I like and it’s what I want
to go for, but a man, he doesn’t want to go for more than 8 inches of a drop and that’s
where the difference between the chest and the stomach, again, you don’t want that. If
you laid the jacket out, you don’t want that to be more than 8 inches even if you’re a
body builder. I’ve got body builders that come and they literally have 12-inch drops.
Now, I don’t build the jacket exactly like that because it would come off as cartoonish. There’s also the area of the hips, so the
jacket is going to flare back out. Unlike women, men don’t usually have wide hips. So
with the thinner hips, you’re going to have less of a flare out, but it’s still going
to be closer in size to the size of your chest. What you end up getting then is a little bit
of, again, it’s almost like the hourglass figure, not as extreme though as on a woman,
but that little bit of indention here in the area of the midsection. Again, you have to
be in shape for this. It looks very healthy. It looks very masculine because what it does
is it builds up the apparent size of the chest, so I’m not a huge guy but my best looks bigger.
My shoulders look more broad when I wear a jacket that fits me properly. That works for thin men. That works for men
that are in shape and take care of their bodies, and I could go into more detail — not in
this video — about the structure of the jacket and other things. Again, we’re going to talk
about the waist suppression, but what if you’re a larger guy? What if you’re a little bit
portly around the midsection? Then this is when you want to go for a more square look
because the square look is better than the round look. As a man, you do not want a round look, so
what you’re going to do is you want to make sure any jacket you try on fits you well in
the shoulders and fits you in the chest area. You can let out a little bit in the midsection,
but the idea is to build up your top area a bit more to balance and to give you a more
square look, so because you have a little bit of excess material there, you’re not going
to be able to have any waist suppression, but that’s not a bad thing. Again, it’s better
for you to have that square look than to have the round look. What you don’t want to do is try to wear a
jacket that is too small on you. That’s always going to look bad. So for a larger guy, when
it comes to waist suppression, this isn’t something he’s going to have to worry about.
Oftentimes, they’re just looking for a jacket that’s going to be able to button. If the
jacket buttons fine here, you can actually have it brought in a little bit more in the
chest. It’s going to be okay to let the shoulders go out just a little bit more. You don’t want
them to make you look like a linebacker, but on the other hand, you want them to balance
that midsection area. Hopefully that answers what’s waist suppression.
Again, you don’t want to go to an extreme especially if you’re a body builder and you’re
out there looking for a jacket. Talk with a custom clothier. Talk with someone that
makes made-to-measure. Your life is just going to be so much easier. You’re one of the hardest
profiles to fit. If you’re smaller and thin, then it’s really a matter of just making sure
that the chest and the shoulders fit properly and you can have that midsection usually adjusted
or brought in by about two inches. I’m going to close it by talking about how
much a made-to-measure jacket such as what this gentleman has can be adjusted. It depends
on the skill of the tailor, but expect around two inches. There are usually three spots
on a jacket where they can bring it in. Most tailors or seamstresses or whoever you go
to are going to try to just adjust it in the back, so there’s a line usually down the back
of a jacket and they can usually bring it in about an inch there, and that will fix
many problems. A lot of guys, when they’re just asking for a bit, that one inch is going
to be a big difference and the tailors love it because they only have to open up the back
of the jacket. And it’s very easy to cover up and hide if they make any errors or if
they don’t stitch it very well. What’s harder though is if they want to get
more than an inch. Then they’re going to have to start bringing in on the sides because
if you bring in two inches directly on the back, it’s going to change the whole dynamics
of the jacket and how it lays on your shoulders. Once you start asking for more than an inch,
they have to start bringing in on the sides. And if you start getting in extreme or if
it’s a really skilled tailor and he wants to balance the adjustment fully around the
jacket, he’s also going to bring it in if you have darts. In my jackets, I’ve got a little dart here.
The problem with the front dart area is that he may also have to move the pockets, and
so it’s a lot more work. Again, as you start to go closer to that 2-inch — I’ve seen it
2.5 inches on it or even 3 inches on a bigger jacket. Again, this has to do with proportion.
If it’s a really small jacket, expect it to be able to be adjusted less. If it’s a huge
jacket, you can adjust it more. Again, it’s kind of a proportion issue, but the more you
want to have it adjusted, the more skill of the tailor you’re going to need to find and
expect the higher the cost because he’s going to have to adjust it in more areas. Hopefully that gives you a better idea of
waist suppression. I will see you guys in the next video. Bye-bye.

29 thoughts on “Men’s Jackets & Waist Suppression – Tailoring An Off The Rack Men’s Suit – Menswear Alterations

  1. @SirBlade666 Generally it should be possible to also let out a suit at the waist depending on the amount of fabric that is available. So this depends on the maker and how much extra material there is.

  2. if you have to choose between to suits – one is a little too large and the other one a little too small – i heard that choosing the smaller one is better… a suit that is too small instead of too large looks better was the opinion of the gentleman on the other video… what is the opinion of the gentlemen on this video??? too large is better than too small??? if you correct the fitting with a tailor its better to have more material, its easier to cut something down instead of adding something..

  3. @fountedakis I would say don't pay for a suit that doesn't fit at all! But it's always better to err on the side of too big, since a tailor can adjust that down in some places. No matter how good he is he can't make more cloth out of nothing!

  4. how about adding two darts in the back? you mentioned the front but that would seem more difficult. your thoughts?

  5. hello Antonio! 2 years ago I bought a blazer that was a little bigger and i took it to the tailor to fit it on me yesterday. He told me he couldn't do it cause it had double vents on the back. Why couldn't he?

  6. don't shy away from thrift stores.. I've found some really nice stuff.. you need to go to one in the higher end neighbourhoods.. that's where you'll find better quality..

    just picked up a beautiful Harris tweed sport coat for $11.. it fits like a glove and shows no signs of wear.. the pocket are even still stitched.. this jacket cost someone a minimum of $500 and now it's mine! also got 2 pair of Banana Republic cargo pants.. brand new with the tags still on for $6 a pair.

  7. This man is very charming and speaks in a way that is very understandable BUT his jacket is too big! You can clearly see by the little puff of material that the jackets shoulders are too wide. A nicely fitting jacket should not pucker or ripple anywhere! Now most people probably wouldn't notice or really mind if their jackets looked like his but this man is giving waist suppression advice wearing a jacket that is too big for him. Hmmm.

  8. I can't disagree with your comment sir – I can only say I like the fit vs. a closer cut as I live in a cold US state and often wear a sweater underneath it. In the end I hope my advice stands on it's own merits vs. relying on me being a perfect dresser – which I am not.

  9. I've always wondered why i see guys in shows/movies have a less box-y suit than what I find stores. I didn't know you actually have to get it personally tailored. thanks for the tips.

  10. I think the problem with the trend these days is this idea of slimmer is better… Every brand has a slim cut and it's getting ridiculous. Tailored does not mean slim fit. They make you look like a clown.

  11. Hi! realmenrealstyle vids are always my go-to for when I have questions about suits but I can't seem to find a video about armholes. Suits now usually have large armholes. theyre comfy and look perfect when my arms are down. but when I lift my arms up to the side, the whole upper torso part of the suit puffs up and moves with my arms. when my arms are raised to the ceiling, im almost smothered in my suit. on the other hand you have the daniel craig bond super tight armholes. What is the best? 🙂

  12. Dude, he probably purchased the jacket so that it can be worn comfortably year around. If someone doesnt have the funds to purchase a set of sport coats for different seasons, they may chose to purchase a jacket that got a little for room in the arms so that they can wear a sweater underneath the jacket if that's their style. That doesnt mean waht he is saying is a good guide for you. In the end, style is personal and should always be comfortble in fit and financial thriftyness. My thoghts.

  13. This is a great video, Mr. Centeno has a great channel and although I may not agree with everything he says, I always enjoy watching his videos.

  14. Fantastic advice once again, I'm still only 19, but am slowly building up a more refined and classy style. The videos you post are of a great help, and you have definately earned my subscription to your channel. Bravo sir!

  15. Hey Antonio, what about buying ready made jacket/blazer through online ? They have the measurements in centimeters of each sizes like M L XL etc. So by getting my own measurements of bust, waist etc, and choose the appropriate size I will get the jacket close to my liking (kind of the slim fit look) ?

  16. I think this video could have been taken from 10 to 11 with a couple of examples. Nobody should buy a suit or jacket without having a personal tailor alter it. Most men can't visualize what this looks like without pictures. I know the first time I had waist suppression added I was blown away by how much better it looks. Most guys leave it looking block-y with too long sleeves so they look like they're wearing their dad's suit. If you have a good tailor, you come away looking like superman.

  17. I have a 10 inch drop and I totally agree. It is SO HARD to get a well fitting jacket. I have an old tartan jacket that I LOVE, but whoever had it before me had a much wider waist. But I am terrified of having it tailored for it being ruined

  18. So it's better to have a square look, giving the appearance of added bulk if you're fat? I disagree, hiding behind a square cut will just make you look like a potato sack.

  19. hey Antonio, just something i wanted to tell you. In the new youtube layout, the subscribe button is to the bottom, not the top. I always noticed you point to the top, but it's at the bottom of the video. Good videos tho, I've been watching for a while.

  20. noticed ur videos don't have any props, sample items, demo visuals or any clothes to show what u are talking about.

  21. Hey Antonio. I know this video is really old, but would the local dry cleaners be able to do this alteration, or would I need to take it to an actual tailor? Thanks.

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