Making a Green Medieval Dress – Part 1

Hi everyone so welcome to a new video.
This is going to be another sewing vlog and this is how the Morgana dress and
cape that I’ll be making for myself as a cosplay. So this is the pattern I’ll be
using. It’s Butterick for 377 and I’ll be using this dress pattern with this
cotton broadcloth material which is just a dark green. Not sure how well
that’s showing on camera. And the cape will be made out of this velvet fabric.
It’s not real velvet. It’s a panne crushed velvet or something
and this one’s similar to the Gwen dress material. Yeah, very Christmasy colours
actually! So yeah, this is the next project I’ll be starting and I hope you
enjoy the video. As always with any pattern, we start out by cutting out our
pattern pieces on to the fabric and what we decided to do was combine the
skirt and bodice pieces together and cut out them as long panels, all in one, just
to eliminate the waist seam that’s on the original pattern. And here’s a really rough drawing of the
panels that we cut out. So we’ve got a front a side front and back and a side
back. All of those were cut out twice. We also cut out the sleeve and this is a
long sleeve that goes down to the wrist and this is the only shot we got of
cutting out the goddets. So the goddets are not actually part of
the pattern – we just used whatever fabric we had left, which wasn’t much. So what
we’re doing now is inserting a goddet into the front panel or front two panels. So we’ve split the front panel into two so we can have lacing up the front and
then at the bottom of the front panels we’re going to have a goddet as part of
the skirt so that’s what she’s pinning into place now. So this might be
confusing but basically this is a front piece and then we’re going to have a
goddet which is on the fold which was cut on the fold. In the center of the
dress we’re going to have one of the smaller goddets here, then the side front
panel, then another little goddet, the side back panel and then towards the
back will be a back piece and then a goddet which is… which was cut on the
fold in the back as well and that’s going to continue on this side as well
obviously. So what we’ve got here is the front panel or half of the front panel
because we did cut it in half and we’ve got a large gore attached on this side.
Well it’s not attached yet. It’s just pinned in place. We’re yet to sew it and
that’s going to attach to the other front panel which will be here and on
this side we have a smaller gore panel and that will be attached to the side
front panel up here. So hopefully that gives you an idea of what we’re trying
to do with this dress. We did alter the… alter the commercial pattern quite a bit
clearly but the bodice part is still the same as the commercial pattern and we
made sure to mark the waistline because I feel like this will come in handy
later on when we’re matching up all the bodice pieces and a trick to remember
with sewing dresses like this is to always start from the bottom (*top!) and then sew downwards because it doesn’t matter if these edges don’t line up. They never
will and we’re just sewing all of those seams of the dress, making sure to start
from the top of the dress like I said and then working your way down to the
bottom of the dress where the hem is and it doesn’t matter if the hem seams don’t
line up because we can always trim them after the dress is done and here we’re
just making sure to mark… match the pieces at the waist measurement marking
and that will just make sure that the dress fits nicely at the waist and over
the hips. So once you’ve finished sewing all of
the seams, you should have something that looks a bit like this. It’s basically a
bunch of panels. Like really long rectangles and triangles all sewn
together really and here we are cutting down the back… the back… center back… yes the centre back panel just to that point there and inserting a goddet
into that space so the back panel is literally just one long rectangle piece
and to give the back some flair, we’re adding a goddet in the back and that
will also balance out the dress since we’ve got goddets in the sides and the
front as well so we don’t want a flat back panel, do we?!
So just sewing that goddet in and over here I think we’re sewing the front
godette so because we split the front panel into two so we could have lacing
down the front. We also had to split the front dogget into two so it’s basically
like two little 1/2 goddets in the front. So yeah. And what are we doing here?
I think we’re still sewing the goddet in? Okay so we’re moving on to the sleeve. So
this is the sleeve pattern and we’re sewing in the ease stitching, I believe
it’s called, and this is just stitching that goes along the head of the sleeve
and will help ease the sleeve into the armcye of the dress and make sure to
try on the sleeve before you attach the sleeve to the dress. You don’t want your
sleeve to not be able to fit your arm. So the sleeve is actually a little bit
tight fitting around the bicep. That might just be could be because I have
quite large biceps. Yeah I’m not sure about about that but the pattern itself
is… is fine. And then pinning the sleeve in to the armcye. So the clip just
before, was sewing down the length of the sleeve to make it into a tube and now
we’re just pinning the sleeve into the armcye and this is a little bit fiddly
and does take some time, especially if you don’t want any gathering or puckering
in the sleeve so take your time with it. Patience is key and a lot of pins. Just
keep pinning away and keep easing and tugging at the fabric and making it lay
as flat as possible. Well ours wasn’t very flat
but when you go to sew it in the sewing machine, just make sure to flatten out
every single millimeter, pretty much, so go very slowly. You can see we’re going
extremely slowly here and we’ve got a million pins
and doing that to both of those sleeves. And what’s coming up next? Sorry, I’m
really terrible at doing voiceovers. I’ll get used to it eventually.
Okay so we’re moving on to the front panel. So the center front where we’re
going to put in the lacing before we put in the lacing we need to stabilize that
center front scene with some extra fabric. So we just cut out really long strips,
sewed that down to the front. Yeah, basically that’s all. Yeah, we sewed them down to where the
gore/goddets start. Yeah, here you can see where those long strips of fabric
have been sewn and we’ve got quite a few layers in here just to give it that
structure that we need. So I think there’s about four layers of the cotton,
what fabric is this? cotton drill… cotton drill fabric and yeah, so turning that
edge under so there’s a nice… a nice clean look on the outside of the dress
and we decided to hand stitch this all into place. So we’re just trimming the
inside layers first before we sew… sew it all down. Oh and here we’re just
doing under stitching. We’re not actually sewing on the outermost layer of the
fabric so just sewing the under stitching so that’s sewing the seam
allowance to the facing, if you will, so you can see the under stitching here. So
this is not visible from the outside, as you can see. So it lays flat against the
inside and then on the outside, it’s completely clean and then to stitch that
all down, we’re hand sewing it. We’re using a prick
stitch, so it’s basically a back stitch but every time you go back one, you take
just a little bit of fabric so the stitching is pretty much invisible from
the outside and then once that’s done, it should look something like this. Can you
see it? Can you see the two front centre front seams? There you go
and that’s where we’ll be putting in the eyelets or the lacing both eyelets
unlacing and now we’re just marking out where the eyelets will go and I’m using
a chalk pencil thing for this and just eyeballing where they should go. No
measuring needed here and I think I staggered the… the holes so it would go
on in a zigzag motion and then we decided to switch to this yellow chalk
because the blue just was not showing up. So you can see that the eyelets are
going in a zigzag sort of pattern and then to make the eyelets, I’m
puncturing the fabric with an awl and then doing the usual which is just
sewing the eyelet with some thread and this was a massive fail because the
eyelets were way too small. Luckily, I only sewed a couple of eyelets before
realizing that they were too small to be functionable. Is functionable a word? I
think so… to function. So in the next video, part two, I’ll be going through how
I closed up the center front. Just for this fitting, I’ve just pinned it in
place and that’ll do for now for this video but make sure you do stay tuned
for part two. So this is where I’m going to leave this video for now. This is just
part one of the making of this dress. Part two will be coming up whenever I
finish it. At the present time of me recording this voiceover, the dress is
still sitting in a suitcase unfinished. So that’s that I will be going through –
how I am going to finish off the sleeves so more specifically, the cuffs of the
dress as well as the neckline and the closure, which is the lacing that goes
down the front and also the hem and perhaps any additional embellishments
that I want to add to the dress. I’m not… I’m not sure. I have no idea in my head
at the moment of what I want to do to it. All I know is that I just want a basic medieval dress. So that’s all I’ve got for this video. Yeah, I’m not sure what
sort of embellishments I’m going to add to this dress. I think keeping it this
very plain simple design will be quite useful to use it for a range of
different costumes. So this is being made as Morgana costume from Merlin, if I
didn’t already mention that, but it’s also a good dress for Susan from Narnia.
So yeah, it’s a good versatile dress if I keep it quite plain and simple but we’ll see. Make sure you click subscribe so you can
see when I post part two to this video vlog sewing vlog thing of this medieval
dress. See you next time! 🙂

10 thoughts on “Making a Green Medieval Dress – Part 1

  1. Corrections!
    10:18 – The fabric is cotton broadcloth, not cotton drill!
    Also, gores/godets (whatever they're called) are part of the pattern but I didn't have enough fabric to follow the pattern exactly. That's why our panel pieces and gores/goddets are a lot slimmer than the pattern. We tried to be as fabric conservative as possible – considering I had 5 metres of this fabric, I think we did pretty well! I also now realise that I was pronouncing the word "godet" wrong throughout the entire video 😞

  2. So the thing about sleeves is I’ve seen a lot of things where it’s got a bend at the elbow, and a seam down the top and bottom, and I think if you managed to do that, you’d be able to make it fit better without losing mobility

  3. Morgana 😍
    Looking at her style, she either works with necklaces and belts or with a second, see through dress worn over the "base dress". The second version might be too work intensive for just embellishments but would work with keeping the Base dress plain and versatile 🤔
    p.s. lavender green 🙂

  4. Thank you for sharing your experience making this medieval dress. I learned so much from how you intentionally made the dress as well as from the clever adaptations you used to handle mistakes. The final result looks great! I need to make a similar dress and you've explained everything I need to know! Thank you again!

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