Fly front (for jacket and coat) part 1 (ENG SUBTITLES)

Right now I’m going to show you one of the variants of fly front for jackets and coats. This is a left forepart with lining and facing. The glue has already been applied to the facing. The facing shall be fastened to the left forepart in the usual way. I’m going to set it aside for the time being and work with the right forepart. Let’s look at the sewing pattern first. Here is the facing for the right forepart with outlined buttonholes. The buttonholes have to be outlined on the forepart of the garment piece first and then the outline needs to be transferred to the facing. I’m going to make a cut on the facing as is shown on the pattern. This is the paper facing with seam allowance. The seam allowance from the edge is 0.7 cm. The allowance from the edge to the cutting line is 1.7 cm. You need to cut out this piece from a paper pattern with seam allowances of 0.5 cm. Then cut into the corners. The cut out piece needs to be compensated for with a strip of overlay fabric, which must also be cut with seam allowances of 0.5 cm. Then you have to cut two pieces of facing from the lining fabric. The length of these two pieces shall be equal to the cutting strip. One of these pieces will be stitched to this strip, and the other will be stitched to the facing. Here is this strip cut from the overlay fabric with the lining piece, and the facing with outlined frame, which needs to be cut out. Don’t forget to include seam allowances of 0.5 cm, and make cuts into the corners. Then cut into the corners. In order to pin one piece of lining fabric to the frame on the facing, you need to place it like this, overlapping the seam allowance on the side with lining fabric. Then you pin it over the entire length. Do not be alarmed if the fabric peeks over the other edge, as it happened with my example piece. You’ll be able to cut it off later. Pin the lining fabric to the strip. Stitch the fabric together where it was pinned. The seam during the stitching should be directed towards the lining and then ironed. Don’t stitch the short sides of the frame on the facing yet. The seam shall also be directed towards the lining. After that you need to sew a seam on the face of the lining at 0.1 cm from the stitch groove. Iron the seam. Flip the shell to the side of the lining. Smooth the flip line with flatiron, holding it down for a few seconds, and then cool the seam with the small board. Here is the result of our work. This excess fabric will be cut off later. After overcasting the bottom edge of this frame we need to outline the buttonholes. We leave out the top buttonhole, because it will be done separately and right through. But other buttonholes have to be outlined like this. I’m cutting the paper pattern like this in order to make it easier to make marks for buttonholes on the fabric. Working with the paper pattern is always easier. I’m making marks with the pencil, so you can see it clearly. Mark only the edge of the hole. The diameter of the buttons will be different for everyone. I will sew the buttonholes with the sewing machine behind the scenes and show you how it comes out. You need to insert the pins into the fabric between the buttonholes to stop the bottom layer of the fabric from budging or twisting.

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