blazer pattern draping


Today I am going to tecah you
Introduction:The Coat Draft Hey Guys, welcome to my youtube
channel RMG Pattern Making 16 JACKET Let’s Begin First we are seeing

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00:00:25,000 –>00:00:29,000
The jacket of this Lounge Suit Takes the wide Lapel
trend with narrow and slight “concave” style of shoulder introduced in a more moderate key. The fronts are button two, deep flaps
are favoured for side pocket. MEASUREMENTS 17 1/2″ natural waist. 30 1/2″full Length. 38″ chest size. working scale is plus 6″=18 1/2″ 3/8″ seams are allowed at all parts of the draft. Draw contruction line and mark 1 from 0 the starting
point=1/2 scale 2 from 0=naturalwaist length
plus 3/8″(back neck seam) 3 from 0=full length plus 3/8″;
4 from 3=1 1/4″(turning) 5 from 2=8″(seat line); 6
from 0=1/4’scale; 7 from 0=1/8″;9 from 4=5/8″ 8 from 2=1/2″; 9 from 4=5/8″ Shape center back 0-1-8-9
(missing point 0 by 1/8″) 10 from 0=1/6 scale plus 1/2″ 11 squared from 10=1 1/8″;
X from 1=1/2″ (for back drape) 12 from X=half across back
plus two seams (3/4″) square line from 12 to locate
13 and 14 15 from 14=3/4″;16 squared
from 15=1/2″; Connect 16-11 (with slight hollow
near 11) and shape back neck. 17 from 12=1/12 scale less 1/4″ 18 from 17=3/8″ for back seam step 19 from 12=1″; Square from
19 to locate 20-21-22 23 from X (on chest line)=2/3
of half chest plus 1 1/2″ 24 from X=1/2 chest plus 3 1/2″ Draw center front line at point
24 to locate 25-26-27 28 from 23=1/6 scale plus 1/4″ 29 squared from 28=1/2 scale plus 1/4″ joint 29-14 and 30 to from 29
=11-16 less 3/8″ Connect 30 to 23;31 from 30=5/8″ Shape 31-29 front shoulder
with slight hollow as shown 32 from 23=3/4″ for easy scye line 33 from 20=1 1/4″;34 from 22=3/4″ 43A from 22=1/2″;Shape side seams
with a seam step at point 18 Locate 35 for the top button position
above 25 (natural waist line)=2″ 36 from 35=1 1/4″; 37 from 29=3/4″ for collar stand
and the crease line is drawn to 36 38 from 29=1/12 scale plus 1/2″ Square from 38 to locate 39=3/4″ 40 from 29=1/6 scale less 3/8″ Square from 40 to locate 41 away from crese
line across=3 1/2″ for whatever style demands
Shape lapel and gorge as shown. D from 41=1 1/2″ for collar step;
42 from 27=1/6 scale less 3/4″; 43 from 42=3/4″;Shape front edge
as iliustrated missing 1/4″ from point 42 and 1/2″ out from 26 44 from 24=1 1/4″ for top breast
pocket guide line connecting point 23. 45 from 23=1 5/8″; 46 from
45=4″ (top pocket mouth); 47 from 23=1″; 48 is locate
on waist line squared from 47; 49 from 48=3 1/8″
(the center of the pocket) 50 from 32=1 1/4″,square from
50 for the forepart with sidebody. Locate 51 on the waist line
and 52 from it=3″ 53 is locate at the bottom
of the forepart; 54 from 53=3/4″ overlapped. On the main forepart there is an increase
of the length at points 50 and 54=3/8″ This increase is adjusted by an
equivalent reduction of the pocket mouth. 56 to 57 is the distance equialent the
amount taken at ponit 58, the
front or breast dart So 55 from 52=3/8″;56 from 55
=3/4″ and 57 from 52=1/4″; On the rear portion allow
slight curve between 51-53. On the main forepart connect 50
(which starts a little higher) to 56 hollowing 3/8″ between
50-51; join 57-54, Shape armhole as illustrated. Thank you for watching Visit to RMG Pattern Making 16
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